Food & Drink

Byron, E14

12 July 2010

Byron, E14

Running a burger restaurant always struck me as like playing in goal. Do it well, and you'll largely get overlooked for praise from more glamorous alternatives. Do it badly, and you end up with something tasteless and stomach churning that will fall apart in an instant. Insert the obvious Rob Green joke here.

New Canary Wharf addition Byron is never likely to win many food awards simply because it's a fairly simple process. Flip a slab of meat, whack it in a bun and add a touch of salad. But by God they do it well.

Firstly, it's hats off for the setting. Having taken the spot filled by the colourful but largely featureless Chilis's, Byron has transformed the space to offer an open kitchen,

balcony seating and a bustling atmosphere. staff seem to be everywhere, a different one popping up each time. They're young and keen, like kids on their first day at school.

They offer a menu with six choices of burgers, 16 toppings or sauces, three main salads and 10 sides. It might not sound like much choice but there's something here for most tastes (apart from people who hate burgers full stop, but they probably wouldn't come in the first place).

The burgers are succulent, juicy and not overdone. They stay in the bun as well, with the ingredients never threatening an escape like with some burger chains. It's filling, tasty food - and topped off with a delicious milkshake, served up in an ice cold steel beaker.

Byron is about as memorable as a burger restaurant can get - I see no why reason why it can't become a Canary Wharf favourite.

John Hyde

Review: Byron

Unit R2300, Cabot Place East, E14 4QT

Tel: 020 7715 9360

Prices: Burgers from £6.25, sides from £2, desserts £4.50

Food: 4/5

Service: 4/5

Value: 3/5

Choice: 3/5

Venue: 4/5