Food & Drink

THE RED LION & SUN, N6

22 July 2010

THE RED LION & SUN, N6

TUCKED away from the hubbub of Highgate Village, you might not notice the Red Lion & Sun during a chance visit to the area.

But inside there has been a metamorphosis - what used to be a groggy boozer is now a warm, open-plan eaterie with a bubbly atmosphere that combines a good selection of beer and wine with a dog and family-friendly policy.

Proprietor Heath Ball is a New Zealander who brings an aura of antipodean sunshine to the venue. He is hoping that this, his third summer running the pub in North Road, will be a long and hot one.

"In the summer we bring out a hog roast at either the front or the back," he said. But he also keeps an open fireplace for roaring log fires in the colder months. "We run a traditional British menu but with a slight twist on classic dishes," he added. I started with half a dozen Dorset rock oysters - fresh from Poole Harbour - with cabernet sauvignon and shallot dressing (£1.50 each or £7.50 for half a dozen).

I'm not a huge seafood fan but the strong flavour of the dressing combined with the icy-cool meat on these oysters was a great treat.

My colleague had smoked pigeon breast with beetroot, walnuts and chicory salad (£5.50). For a starter the dish was a decent size and the meat of the pigeon was dark, gamey and substantial.

Although the menu changes daily, there are a couple of stock dishes the pub regards as specialities. Of these I opted for the shepherd's pie with celeriac and potato mash and green beans (£9.50), while my colleague enjoyed the rump steak cheeseburger on a sourdough bun with mayonnaise and hand-cut chips (£9.50).

The pie is made with spicy merguez sausage from Morocco and has a seriously zingy kick that takes you slightly by surprise. The mash mixes beautifully to give a juicy, oily finish.

Not many restaurants ask how guests would like their burgers cooked these days but at this pub it is a point of honour, and my colleague's medium to well-done cheeseburger did not disappoint.

Too full to manage a dessert on this occasion, we contemplated the delights on offer - Valrhona chocolate truffle cake with raspberries (£6) and passion fruit cheese cake with custard (£4.50) looked mighty tempting - and resolved to sample them next time around.

Wine from: £13.50

Mains from: £9.50

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled facilities: Yes

THE RED LION & SUN

25 North Road, N6

020 8340 1780